18x18 hex red Marble tile shower floor

Choosing Rosa Norvegia Marble hex tile for a shower floor is a beautiful but bold decision. The considerations are different from a countertop, as the environment is wet, slippery, and constantly exposed to soaps and shampoos.

Here's a detailed guide on what you need to know before buying, during installation, and for long-term maintenance.

Part 1: Before You Buy – Critical Considerations for a Wet Environment

1. The #1 Rule: Slip Resistance

Hexagon tiles are a good start: The small format and numerous grout lines provide more traction than large-format tiles. The 18x18" sheet-mounted mosaic pattern is excellent for drainage.

Finish is crucial: You must select a honed or tumbled finish for a shower floor. A polished finish will become dangerously slippery when wet. A honed finish provides a matte, slightly textured surface that offers much better grip.

2. Water Absorption and Potential "Curling"

Marble is porous: Unlike porcelain, natural marble absorbs water. In a constantly wet environment like a shower floor, this can lead to a phenomenon called "curling" or "tenting."

What is curling? The tiles absorb moisture from the top and the bottom. If they absorb at different rates, they can expand unevenly, potentially causing them to lift at the corners or crack. This is why the installation system behind them is absolutely critical (covered in Part 2).

3. Staining and Etching from Toiletries

Etching: The calcium carbonate in marble reacts with acids. Many shampoos, conditioners, body washes, and soaps are acidic. This will cause etching (dulling of the surface) over the entire shower floor. You must be prepared for this and accept it as part of the patina.

Staining: Hair dyes, certain soaps, and other products can stain the porous stone if not cleaned immediately and if the tile is not properly sealed.

4. Get Professional Quotes and Ask the Right Questions

Select in Person: View the exact sheets of tile you are buying. Check for consistency in color and veining.

Ask the Supplier:

"Is this tile recommended for shower floor use?"

"What is the recommended grout joint width for these sheets?" (Wider joints are better for drainage).

"Can you provide the name of an installer experienced with natural stone in wet areas?"

The Quote: Understand if the price is just for materials or includes a specific sealer. Factor in the cost of a high-quality installer, which is non-negotiable.

Part 2: Installation – This is Where Success or Failure is Decided

A marble shower floor is a system, not just tiles stuck to the floor. Improper installation is the leading cause of failure.

1. The Shower Base System (The Most Important Part)

A traditional mortar bed (a "slope shower pan") is often considered the gold standard for natural stone because it's a solid, stable, and monolithic base. However, modern systems can also be excellent if installed perfectly.

Option A: Traditional Mortar Bed (Slope Shower Pan): A sand/cement base is sloped precisely to the drain, covered with a waterproofing membrane (like a Schluter shower system), and then the tile is set in mortar. This is a time-tested method.

Option B: Pre-Sloped Foam Panels (e.g., Schluter®-Kerdi): These are lightweight, pre-sloped foam trays that are covered with a waterproofing membrane. They are excellent but require perfect installation to avoid any flex, which could crack the marble.

Key Point: Discuss these options with your installer. They must have proven experience installing natural stone with the chosen system.

2. Waterproofing is Paramount

The entire shower enclosure-walls and floor-must have a continuous, unbroken waterproofing layer (behind the tile and mortar) that ties into the drain assembly. This is not a DIY job.

3. Setting the Tile

Grout Joints: The installer must ensure grout joints are consistent and properly filled. The gaps between the hexagons are crucial for drainage and traction.

Sealing BEFORE Grouting: The tiles must be sealed with a high-quality impregnating sealer before grout is applied. This is critical to prevent grout haze from staining the porous marble and to make cleanup easier.

Grout Choice:

Use a non-sanded grout if the grout lines are very narrow (less than 1/8").

Use a sanded grout for joints 1/8" or wider, as it is more durable and shrink-resistant.

Choose a grout color that complements the stone. A dark grout will highlight the pattern but show water spots. A light grout will hide spots but may show dirt. Epoxy or urethane grouts are highly stain-resistant and don't need sealing, but they are more difficult to work with.

4. Sealing AFTER Grouting

After the grout has fully cured (check manufacturer's instructions, usually 48-72 hours), the entire floor (tile and grout) must be sealed again with a high-quality, penetrating sealer designed for wet environments.

Part 3: Maintenance – The Daily Reality

1. Daily/Weekly Care

Squeegee After Every Use: This is the single most important habit. Using a squeegee to remove standing water dramatically reduces water spotting, mineral deposition, and the time the stone is exposed to moisture.

Ventilation: Run the bathroom fan during and for at least 20-30 minutes after showering to remove humid air.

Clean with pH-Neutral Cleaner: Use a stone-specific cleaner or a mild, phosphate-free dish soap diluted in water. Never use acidic cleaners, vinegar, or abrasive scrubbers.

2. Preventing Damage

Use a Bath Mat: Place a breathable, natural fiber mat outside the shower to step onto. This protects the stone from direct contact with dirty or gritty feet.

Rinse: A quick rinse of the shower floor with warm water after use helps wash away soap residue.

3. Resealing

Frequency: The shower floor will need to be resealed much more frequently than a countertop-likely every 6 to 12 months, depending on use.

The Test: Perform a water bead test every few months. Sprinkle water on the tile in a few spots. If it beads up, the seal is good. If it absorbs into the stone and darkens it within a few minutes, it's time to reseal.